Food & Wine

• VVegetarian
• GFGluten-free

Ingredients

• 500 g (1 lb 2 oz) thick Greek yoghurt
• 1 large cucumber, coarsely grated
• 1 tsp fine sea salt, plus extra to taste
• 2 garlic cloves, finely grated or pounded to a paste
• 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve
• 1 tbsp white wine vinegar or lemon juice
• 1 tbsp dill, finely chopped, or 1 tsp dried dill
• 1 tbsp mint leaves, finely chopped (optional)
• Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Method

1. Place the grated cucumber in a bowl, toss it with 1 tsp salt, and leave for 10 minutes to draw out excess water.
2. Tip the cucumber into a clean tea towel or muslin and squeeze firmly until as much liquid as possible is removed; the cucumber should feel damp, not wet.
3. In a mixing bowl, combine the yoghurt, garlic, olive oil, vinegar or lemon juice, dill, mint if using, and a good grind of black pepper.
4. Add the drained cucumber and fold gently until evenly distributed and the mixture looks thick, glossy, and speckled with green.
5. Taste and adjust with a little more salt, vinegar or lemon juice, or garlic, keeping the balance fresh rather than aggressively sharp.
6. Cover and chill for at least 2 hours so the flavours meld and the garlic mellows; the texture should firm up slightly in the fridge.
7. Before serving, stir once more, then spoon into a shallow bowl and swirl the surface with the back of a spoon.
8. Finish with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and, if you like, a few extra dill fronds or a pinch of black pepper.

To serve

Serve chilled with warm pita, grilled lamb or chicken, or as part of a meze spread with olives and vegetables. A crisp white wine, retsina, or cold beer suits it well.

• DFDairy-free

Ingredients

• 200 g (7 oz) white bread, crusts removed and stale or lightly toasted
• 120 g (4 1/4 oz) tarama (salted cured fish roe)
• 1 small onion, very finely grated
• 60 ml (2 fl oz) lemon juice, plus extra to taste
• 250 ml (9 fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil
• 120 ml (4 fl oz) sunflower oil or mild olive oil
• 2 tbsp cold water, as needed
• 1 small garlic clove, finely grated (optional)
• 1 tbsp white wine vinegar (optional)

Method

1. Soak the bread in cold water for 2 minutes, then squeeze it very firmly in your hands until it is almost dry. Tear it into pieces and set aside.
2. Put the tarama and grated onion into a bowl. Stir together with the lemon juice for 1 minute until the roe loosens and the mixture looks glossy.
3. Work in the bread a handful at a time, mixing thoroughly after each addition until it is fully broken down and the mixture becomes thick and paste-like.
4. Transfer the mixture to a food processor and blend on medium speed for 1 minute until smooth, stopping once to scrape down the sides.
5. With the processor running on medium, slowly drizzle in the olive oil in a thin stream over 2 to 3 minutes, then add the sunflower oil in the same way. Continue until the taramosalata turns pale, airy and emulsified.
6. If the mixture seems too stiff, add 1 tablespoon cold water at a time and blend briefly until it is soft, smooth and spreadable.
7. Taste and adjust with more lemon juice, a little vinegar if using, and the garlic if desired. Blend briefly after each addition, keeping the flavour bright but not aggressively sharp.
8. Scrape the taramosalata into a shallow serving bowl, smooth the surface with a spoon, and chill for at least 15 minutes to allow the flavour to settle.
9. Before serving, drizzle lightly with olive oil if you like and give it a final twist of black pepper only if desired; traditional versions are usually left unpeppered.

To serve

Serve taramosalata cold with warm pita, crusty bread, radishes, cucumber and olives, as part of a meze spread. A crisp white wine, ouzo, or a dry retsina works well alongside it.

• VVegetarian
• VGVegan
• GFGluten-free
• DFDairy-free

Ingredients

• 2 medium aubergines (eggplants) (about 800 g / 1 lb 12 oz)
• 2 garlic cloves, finely grated or crushed to a paste
• 1 small red onion, very finely diced
• 2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
• 2 tbsp lemon juice, freshly squeezed
• 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve
• 1 tsp red wine vinegar
• 1/2 tsp fine sea salt, plus more to taste
• 1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
• 1 pinch dried oregano, optional

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 220°C fan (240°C conventional, 475°F, gas mark 9). Line a baking tray with foil or baking paper.
2. Prick the aubergines all over with a fork, then place them on the tray. Roast on the middle shelf for 35-40 minutes, turning once halfway through, until the skins are well blistered and the flesh feels completely soft when pressed.
3. Remove the aubergines from the oven and leave them to cool until they are comfortable to handle, about 10 minutes.
4. Split the aubergines open lengthways and scoop the flesh into a sieve or colander. Leave to drain for 5-10 minutes to remove excess bitterness and moisture, pressing lightly with the back of a spoon.
5. Transfer the drained aubergine flesh to a chopping board and chop it finely with a knife, or leave it a little coarse if you prefer a more rustic texture.
6. Place the aubergine in a bowl with the garlic, red onion, parsley, lemon juice, olive oil, vinegar, salt and black pepper. Mix and fold gently until combined and lightly creamy, without overworking it.
7. Taste and adjust the seasoning with a little more salt or lemon juice if needed. If using, fold in the oregano.
8. Cover and chill for at least 15 minutes, or serve at room temperature for a softer, more pronounced aubergine flavour.
9. Transfer to a shallow bowl, make a small swirl on top with the back of a spoon, and finish with a drizzle of extra olive oil before serving.

To serve

Serve with warm pita, crusty bread or vegetable batons as part of a meze spread. It also sits well alongside grilled lamb, chicken or fish, with a crisp white wine or a light, dry rosé.

Ingredients

• 3 medium aubergines (eggplants), cut into 1 cm (1/2 in) slices lengthways
• 3 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into 1 cm (1/2 in) slices
• 4 tbsp olive oil
• 1 large onion, finely diced
• 2 garlic cloves, finely grated
• 500 g (1 lb 2 oz) beef mince
• 2 tbsp tomato purée
• 400 g tin chopped tomatoes
• 120 ml (4 fl oz) dry red wine
• 1 tsp ground cinnamon
• 1/4 tsp ground allspice
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 50 g (1 3/4 oz) unsalted butter
• 50 g (1 3/4 oz) plain flour
• 600 ml (1 pint 1 fl oz) whole milk, warmed
• 1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
• 2 large egg yolks
• 75 g (2 1/2 oz) kefalotyri or Parmesan, finely grated
• 20 g (3/4 oz) breadcrumbs, for the top

Method

1. Heat the oven to 200°C fan (220°C/425°F/gas 7). Arrange the aubergine slices on trays, brush both sides lightly with some of the olive oil, and season with salt. Roast for 20–25 minutes, turning once, until softened and lightly browned at the edges.
2. Meanwhile, bring a saucepan of water to the boil over high heat. Add the potato slices and simmer over medium heat for 8–10 minutes until just tender at the edge but not collapsing. Drain well and leave to steam dry.
3. Make the meat sauce: heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a large pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 8 minutes, stirring, until soft and translucent.
4. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute more, just until fragrant.
5. Increase the heat to medium-high and add the mince. Cook for 6–8 minutes, breaking it up with a spoon, until well browned and any liquid has evaporated.
6. Stir in the tomato purée, then pour in the red wine and let it bubble for 2–3 minutes to reduce and lose its raw alcohol smell.
7. Add the chopped tomatoes, cinnamon, allspice, bay leaf, parsley, salt and pepper. Lower the heat to low and simmer gently for 25–30 minutes, stirring now and then, until thick, glossy and almost spoonable. Remove the bay leaf and set aside.
8. Make the béchamel: melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the flour and cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly, until it smells faintly nutty and the raw flour taste has cooked out.
9. Gradually whisk in the warm milk in a steady stream to prevent lumps. Cook over medium heat for 5–7 minutes, whisking, until the sauce is smooth and thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.
10. Take the pan off the heat. Whisk in the nutmeg, then the egg yolks and half the grated cheese. Taste and season lightly with salt and pepper; the sauce should be creamy and well seasoned.
11. Reduce the oven to 180°C fan (200°C/400°F/gas 6). Lightly oil a deep 30 x 20 cm (12 x 8 in) baking dish. Layer in the potatoes, then half the aubergines, then all the meat sauce, then the remaining aubergines, pressing gently to compact the layers.
12. Spoon the béchamel evenly over the top, scatter with the remaining cheese and the breadcrumbs, and bake for 35–40 minutes until deeply golden, bubbling at the edges and set in the centre.
13. Leave the moussaka to rest for at least 20 minutes before cutting, so the layers hold together cleanly.

To serve

Serve in generous squares with a crisp green salad and plenty of bread to mop up the sauce. A dry Greek red or a light-bodied rosé suits it well.

• DFDairy-free

Ingredients

• 1.2 kg (2 lb 10 oz) beef chuck or stewing beef, cut into 4 cm (1 1/2 in) pieces
• 2 tbsp plain flour
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 2 large onions, finely sliced
• 3 garlic cloves, finely grated
• 250 ml (9 fl oz) dry red wine
• 2 tbsp tomato purée
• 400 g (14 oz) tinned chopped tomatoes
• 500 ml (17 fl oz) hot beef stock
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 tsp dried oregano
• 1 tsp fine sea salt, plus more to taste
• 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tsp red wine vinegar
• 1 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped, to finish

Method

1. Season the beef with salt and pepper, then dust lightly with the flour, shaking off any excess. This thin coating will help the meat brown and later give the sauce a little body.
2. Heat the olive oil in a large heavy casserole over medium-high heat for 2 minutes. Brown the beef in batches for 6-8 minutes per batch, turning to colour it well on all sides; transfer to a plate as each batch is done.
3. Reduce the heat to medium and add the onions to the same casserole. Sweat for 10-12 minutes, stirring often, until soft, glossy and just beginning to turn golden at the edges.
4. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute, stirring, until fragrant but not coloured.
5. Stir in the tomato purée and cook for 1-2 minutes, until it darkens slightly and loses its raw taste.
6. Pour in the red wine and deglaze the pan, scraping up any browned bits from the base. Simmer over medium heat for 4-5 minutes, until reduced by about half and the sharp alcohol smell has eased.
7. Add the chopped tomatoes, hot stock, cinnamon stick, bay leaves, oregano, salt and black pepper. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-high heat, then return the beef and any juices to the casserole.
8. Cover with a lid, reduce the heat to low, and cook at a bare simmer for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, until the beef is very tender and the sauce is thick, glossy and deeply red. Stir occasionally and add a splash of water if it looks too dry.
9. Remove the lid for the last 10-15 minutes if needed, to reduce the sauce until it lightly coats the meat rather than pooling around it.
10. Stir in the red wine vinegar, then taste and adjust the seasoning. Rest off the heat for 10 minutes before serving, so the flavours settle and the sauce tightens slightly.

To serve

Serve the kokkinisto in shallow bowls or on wide plates with the sauce spooned generously over the meat. It is excellent with mashed potatoes, thick-cut fried potatoes, rice or pappardelle, with crusty bread and a simple green salad; a medium-bodied red wine suits it well.

Ingredients

• 1.2 kg (2 lb 10 oz) beef chuck or stewing beef, cut into 4 cm (1 1/2 in) pieces
• 3 tbsp olive oil
• 2 large onions, finely diced
• 4 garlic cloves, finely grated
• 2 tbsp tomato purée
• 250 ml (9 fl oz) dry red wine
• 400 g (14 oz) tinned chopped tomatoes
• 500 ml (17 fl oz) hot beef stock
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 tsp dried oregano
• 1 tsp fine salt, plus extra to taste
• 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
• 300 g (10 1/2 oz) kritharaki (or orzo)
• 50 g (1 3/4 oz) butter, diced
• 50 g (1 3/4 oz) kefalotyri or Parmesan, finely grated, plus extra to serve

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 160°C fan (180°C/350°F/gas 4). Set a heavy lidded casserole or clay pot on the hob over medium heat.
2. Pat the beef dry and season lightly with salt and pepper. Add 2 tbsp of the olive oil to the pot, then brown the meat in batches over medium-high heat for 6–8 minutes per batch, turning until deeply coloured on all sides; transfer to a plate as it browns.
3. Lower the heat to medium, add the remaining 1 tbsp olive oil, then add the onions. Sweat for 8–10 minutes, stirring often, until soft, translucent and just beginning to colour.
4. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute over medium heat, stirring until fragrant. Stir in the tomato purée and cook for 1–2 minutes until it darkens slightly and smells sweet rather than raw.
5. Pour in the red wine and deglaze the pot, scraping up any browned bits from the base. Simmer over medium heat for 3–4 minutes until reduced by about half and no longer smells sharply alcoholic.
6. Return the beef and any resting juices to the pot. Add the chopped tomatoes, hot stock, cinnamon stick, bay leaves, oregano, salt and pepper, then bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat.
7. Cover and transfer to the oven. Bake for 1 hour 20 minutes, stirring once or twice, until the beef is beginning to turn tender and the sauce has thickened slightly.
8. Stir in the kritharaki and the butter, making sure the pasta is well submerged in the sauce. If needed, add a splash more hot stock or water so the mixture is just loosened and not dry.
9. Cover again and bake for 25–30 minutes more, stirring once halfway through, until the pasta is tender but still has a slight bite and the sauce is thick, glossy and clinging to the meat.
10. Remove from the oven and stir in the grated cheese. Cover loosely and rest for 10 minutes so the giouvetsi settles and the sauce is fully absorbed.
11. Taste and adjust the seasoning, then serve hot with extra cheese at the table.

To serve

Serve the giouvetsi directly from the pot or spoon it into warm shallow bowls, making sure each portion gets plenty of meat, pasta and sauce. Finish with extra grated kefalotyri or Parmesan and a simple green salad; a dry red wine or a glass of robust retsina suits it well.

Ingredients

• 1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) pork shoulder or leg, cut into 3 cm (1¼ in) cubes
• 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 tbsp lemon juice
• 2 garlic cloves, finely grated
• 2 tsp dried oregano
• 1 tsp fine sea salt
• ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
• 8 metal or soaked wooden skewers
• 4 pita breads, warmed, to serve
• 1 small red onion, finely sliced, to serve
• 2 tomatoes, sliced, to serve
• Tzatziki, to serve

Method

1. If using wooden skewers, soak them in cold water for at least 20 minutes so they do not scorch on the grill.
2. In a bowl, combine the olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, oregano, salt and black pepper, then add the pork and turn to coat evenly. Cover and marinate at room temperature for 20 minutes, or in the fridge for up to 4 hours if you want a deeper flavour.
3. Thread the pork onto the skewers, packing the pieces snugly but not tightly so the heat can circulate and the meat cooks evenly.
4. Preheat a grill, barbecue, or grill pan on high heat for 8–10 minutes until very hot. If using an oven grill, preheat to 240°C fan (475°F, gas 9).
5. Lightly oil the grill bars or pan, then cook the souvlaki on high heat for 10–12 minutes in total, turning every 2–3 minutes, until well browned on the outside and just cooked through. The meat should feel springy and the juices should run clear.
6. If needed, move the skewers briefly to a cooler part of the grill to avoid over-colouring before the centres are cooked. Aim for a lightly charred surface, not dryness.
7. Transfer the skewers to a warm plate and rest for 3 minutes so the juices settle back into the meat.
8. Warm the pita breads briefly on the grill or in a dry frying pan for 30–45 seconds per side, just until supple and lightly marked.
9. Serve the souvlaki in the pita breads or straight from the skewers, with sliced red onion, tomatoes and tzatziki alongside or wrapped around the meat.

To serve

Serve hot with warm pita, sliced red onion, tomato and plenty of tzatziki, plus a simple green salad or chips if you like the full street-food style. A chilled white wine or a light lager sits comfortably alongside the smoky, lemony meat.

Ingredients

• 500 g (1 lb 2 oz) bucatini or thick tubular pasta
• 2 tbsp fine salt, for the pasta water
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 1 large onion, finely diced
• 2 garlic cloves, finely grated
• 750 g (1 lb 10 oz) beef mince
• 2 tbsp tomato purée
• 400 g (14 oz) tinned chopped tomatoes
• 125 ml (4 fl oz) dry red wine
• 1 tsp ground cinnamon
• 1/4 tsp ground cloves
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 tsp fine salt
• 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
• 60 ml (2 fl oz) water, as needed
• 40 g (1 1/2 oz) unsalted butter
• 40 g (1 1/2 oz) plain flour
• 600 ml (1 pint 1 fl oz) whole milk, warmed
• 1 small pinch freshly grated nutmeg
• 2 large eggs, lightly beaten
• 80 g (2 3/4 oz) kefalotyri or Parmesan, finely grated
• 1 tbsp olive oil, for greasing
• 30 g (1 oz) kefalotyri or Parmesan, finely grated, for the top

Method

1. Make the meat sauce first. Set a large frying pan over medium heat and warm the olive oil for 1 minute, then add the onion and cook for 6-8 minutes, stirring often, until soft and translucent but not browned.
2. Add the garlic and cook over low heat for 30 seconds, just until fragrant. Stir in the beef mince, increase to medium-high heat and cook for 6-8 minutes, breaking it up with a spoon, until no pink remains and the meat is lightly browned.
3. Stir in the tomato purée and cook for 1 minute to take off the raw edge. Add the tinned tomatoes, wine, cinnamon, cloves, bay leaf, salt and pepper, then bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat.
4. Reduce to low heat and cook uncovered for 25-30 minutes, stirring now and then, until the sauce is thick, glossy and no longer watery. If it looks too tight before the meat is tender, add a little water and continue to simmer.
5. Meanwhile, cook the pasta. Bring a large pan of water to a rolling boil over high heat, add the salt and the pasta, and cook for 1-2 minutes less than the packet instructions so it is still firm at the centre. Drain well and discard the bay leaf from the meat sauce.
6. Mix the drained pasta with the beaten eggs, grated cheese and a ladleful of the meat sauce so it is lightly coated. This helps the bottom layer set and adds flavour throughout.
7. Preheat the oven to 180°C fan/200°C/400°F/gas mark 6. Grease a deep baking dish, about 30 x 22 cm, with the olive oil.
8. Spread half the pasta in the dish, pressing it down into an even layer. Spoon over the meat sauce and level it with the back of a spoon, then top with the remaining pasta.
9. Make the béchamel. Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat, then stir in the flour and cook for 1-2 minutes, whisking, until it smells lightly nutty and the mixture looks sandy.
10. Gradually whisk in the warm milk a little at a time over medium heat, whisking constantly to prevent lumps, then cook for 5-7 minutes until thick and smooth and it coats the back of a spoon.
11. Take the pan off the heat and stir in the nutmeg and a little salt. Leave to cool for 2 minutes, then whisk in the beaten eggs and half of the grated cheese so the sauce stays silky rather than scrambling.
12. Pour the béchamel over the pasta and spread it to the edges in a smooth layer. Scatter over the remaining cheese, then bake for 35-40 minutes until puffed, deeply golden and set in the centre.
13. Rest the pastitsio for at least 20-30 minutes before cutting, so the layers settle and slice cleanly.

To serve

Cut into neat squares and serve warm with a simple green salad, tomato salad or wilted greens, plus crusty bread for the sauce. A glass of dry red wine suits it well, and a little extra grated cheese at the table is welcome.

• VVegetarian
• VGVegan
• GFGluten-free
• DFDairy-free

Ingredients

• 6 ripe medium tomatoes
• 6 medium bell peppers, tops kept intact and hollowed
• 2 medium onions, finely diced
• 3 garlic cloves, finely grated
• 100 ml (3½ fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil
• 400 g (14 oz) long-grain rice, rinsed
• 1 medium courgette, finely diced
• 1 medium aubergine, finely diced
• 2 tbsp tomato purée
• 2 tsp dried oregano
• 1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
• 1 small bunch dill, finely chopped
• 2 tbsp mint leaves, finely chopped
• 1 tsp caster sugar
• 1 ½ tsp fine sea salt
• ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
• 400 ml (14 fl oz) hot water or gluten-free vegetable stock
• 2 medium potatoes, cut into wedges

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C fan (200°C conventional/400°F/gas mark 6). Arrange a rack in the middle of the oven and line a deep roasting tin or baking dish large enough to hold the vegetables snugly.
2. Slice a thin lid from each tomato and pepper, then set the lids aside. Scoop out the tomato flesh and seeds into a bowl, leaving the shells intact; remove the pepper cores and seeds. Finely chop the tomato pulp and reserve it for the filling.
3. Heat 60 ml (2 fl oz) of the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onions and sweat for 6–8 minutes, stirring often, until soft and translucent but not browned.
4. Add the garlic, courgette and aubergine, then cook over medium heat for 6–8 minutes, stirring, until the vegetables are soft and any excess moisture has evaporated. Let them take a little colour: with no meat in the pan, this is where the depth of the filling now comes from.
5. Add the tomato purée and cook over medium heat for 1–2 minutes, stirring constantly, until it darkens slightly and smells sweet rather than raw.
6. Add the chopped tomato flesh, rice, oregano, parsley, dill, mint, sugar, salt and pepper. Stir well to combine, then cook over medium heat for 2 minutes so the rice is coated and the mixture smells fragrant.
7. Pour in the hot water or gluten-free vegetable stock and simmer over low-medium heat for 5–6 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is mostly absorbed but the rice is still undercooked; it should remain loose and spoonable. Remove from the heat and rest for 5 minutes.
8. Fill each tomato and pepper about three-quarters full with the rice mixture, then replace the lids. Pack the vegetables tightly into the roasting tin and tuck the potato wedges around them. Spoon any remaining filling into the gaps in the tin.
9. Drizzle the remaining olive oil over the vegetables and season lightly with a little extra salt. Pour 100–150 ml (3½–5 fl oz) water into the base of the tin to keep the vegetables moist during baking.
10. Bake for 55–65 minutes, until the vegetables are tender, the tops are lightly browned and the rice is fully cooked. If the tops colour too quickly, cover loosely with foil for the final 20 minutes.
11. Remove from the oven and rest for at least 15 minutes before serving, so the filling settles and the juices are absorbed. Serve warm or at room temperature.

To serve

Serve the gemista with the roasted potatoes and a spoonful of the pan juices, with crusty bread and a simple green salad alongside. A chilled white wine or a light rosé suits the dish well; finish with a little extra olive oil.

• GFGluten-free
• DFDairy-free

Ingredients

• 1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) lamb shoulder, cut into large chunks
• 4 garlic cloves, sliced
• 2 tbsp dried Greek oregano
• 2 tsp fine sea salt
• 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
• 2 lemons, 1 zested and both juiced
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) waxy potatoes, peeled and cut into large chunks
• 1 large onion, cut into wedges
• 150 ml (5 fl oz) dry white wine
• 100 ml (3½ fl oz) water
• 2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped

Method

1. Put the lamb into a large bowl and season with the garlic, oregano, salt, pepper, lemon zest, lemon juice and olive oil. Massage everything together well, then leave to marinate for at least 20 minutes, or up to 2 hours in the refrigerator.
2. Heat the oven to 160°C fan (180°C/350°F/Gas 4).
3. Arrange the potatoes and onion in a deep roasting tin or casserole. Tuck the bay leaves among them and season lightly with a little salt and pepper.
4. Set the marinated lamb on top of the vegetables, scraping in any remaining marinade. Pour over the wine and water.
5. Cover tightly with baking paper and then a double layer of foil, sealing the edges well so the steam stays inside. If using a lidded casserole, fit the lid securely.
6. Bake on the middle shelf for 2 hours 45 minutes at 160°C fan (180°C/350°F/Gas 4) until the lamb is very tender when pierced and the potatoes are soft but still holding their shape.
7. Remove the foil and paper, increase the oven to 200°C fan (220°C/425°F/Gas 7), and bake for 20 to 25 minutes more until the lamb is lightly browned and the juices have reduced slightly.
8. Lift the lamb and potatoes onto a warmed platter. Spoon over the pan juices, scatter with parsley and rest for 10 minutes before serving.
9. Taste the cooking juices and adjust the seasoning if needed before spooning them back over the meat. Serve hot, ensuring each portion gets both lamb and potatoes.

To serve

Serve Kleftiko straight from the roasting tin or arranged on a warmed platter with plenty of its juices, alongside a crisp green salad and warm bread to mop up the sauce. A chilled white wine or a dry rosé suits the rich, lemony lamb well.

• DFDairy-free

Ingredients

• 500 g (1 lb 2 oz) minced beef, or a mix of beef and lamb
• 1 small onion, finely grated
• 2 garlic cloves, finely grated
• 50 ml (3 tbsp + 1 tsp) red wine
• 1 slice day-old bread, crusts removed and soaked in water, then squeezed dry
• 1 large egg
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 2 tsp ground cumin
• 1 tsp sweet paprika
• 1 tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
• 1 tsp salt
• ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
• 3 tbsp plain flour, for shaping and dusting
• 3 tbsp olive oil, for frying
• [For the sauce] 2 tbsp olive oil
• 1 medium onion, finely chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 1 tbsp tomato purée
• 400 g (14 oz) tinned chopped tomatoes
• 250 ml (9 fl oz) red wine
• 250 ml (9 fl oz) water or light stock
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 tsp sugar
• 1 tsp dried oregano
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Method

1. Put the minced meat, grated onion, grated garlic, red wine, squeezed bread, egg, olive oil, cumin, paprika, parsley, salt and pepper into a large bowl. Mix thoroughly with your hands for 2 to 3 minutes, until the mixture is cohesive and slightly sticky.
2. Cover the bowl and rest the mixture in the fridge for 20 minutes so it firms up and the flavours settle.
3. Meanwhile, make the sauce. Heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a wide pan over medium heat for 2 minutes, then add the chopped onion and cook for 6 to 8 minutes, stirring, until soft and translucent.
4. Add the chopped garlic and tomato purée and cook over medium heat for 1 minute, stirring, until fragrant and the purée darkens slightly.
5. Pour in the red wine and simmer over medium-high heat for 2 to 3 minutes, scraping up any sticky bits, until the alcohol smell has cooked off.
6. Add the chopped tomatoes, water or stock, bay leaf, sugar and oregano. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat, then reduce to low and cook for 20 minutes, stirring now and then, until the sauce is slightly reduced and tastes rounded. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
7. Shape the meat mixture into oval, finger-length meatballs about 6 cm long and lightly roll each one in plain flour, shaking off the excess. You should have 12 to 14 pieces.
8. Heat the 3 tbsp olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat for 2 minutes. Fry the soutzoukakia in batches for 2 to 3 minutes per side, until lightly browned but not cooked through.
9. Transfer the browned meatballs into the tomato sauce, nestling them in a single layer if possible. Spoon sauce over the top, cover partially, and simmer over low heat for 20 minutes, turning the meatballs once, until cooked through and tender and the sauce has thickened slightly.
10. Remove the bay leaf and let the dish rest off the heat for 5 minutes before serving so the sauce settles and the flavours deepen.

To serve

Serve the soutzoukakia in shallow bowls with plenty of sauce spooned over the top, alongside rice, mashed potatoes, or crusty bread. A simple green salad or boiled greens makes a good counterpart, and a dry red wine or a light beer works well.

• DFDairy-free

Ingredients

• 1 whole sea bass or cod, about 1.2 kg (2 lb 10 oz), cleaned and scaled
• 1 tsp fine sea salt, plus extra to taste
• 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tbsp plain flour, for dusting
• 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 large onion, finely sliced
• 3 garlic cloves, finely sliced
• 500 g (1 lb 2 oz) ripe tomatoes, grated or finely chopped
• 2 tbsp tomato purée
• 150 ml (5 fl oz) dry white wine
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 tsp dried oregano
• 2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
• 1 lemon, cut into wedges

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C fan (220°C, 425°F, gas mark 7). Lightly oil a baking dish large enough to hold the fish in a single layer.
2. Pat the fish very dry with kitchen paper. Season the cavity and skin lightly with the salt and pepper, then dust the skin all over with the flour and shake off any excess.
3. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat for 2 minutes. Add the onion and cook for 6–8 minutes, stirring, until softened and translucent but not coloured.
4. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds more, just until fragrant. Stir in the tomatoes and tomato purée, then cook over medium heat for 5 minutes until the tomatoes begin to break down.
5. Pour in the wine and add the bay leaf and oregano. Simmer over medium heat for 4–5 minutes, stirring now and then, until the sauce has slightly reduced and no longer tastes sharp.
6. Spread the tomato mixture in the baking dish and lay the fish on top. Drizzle with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil.
7. Bake on the middle shelf for 25–30 minutes, until the fish flakes easily at the thickest part and the flesh is opaque; the sauce should be bubbling at the edges and lightly thickened.
8. Remove from the oven and rest for 5 minutes. Scatter with the parsley and adjust the seasoning if needed, then serve with lemon wedges.

To serve

Serve the fish whole, spooning the tomato sauce over the top, with crusty bread or boiled potatoes to catch the juices. A crisp white Greek wine or dry rosé suits it well, with a simple green salad alongside.

Ingredients

• 800 g (1 lb 12 oz) boneless pork shoulder, cut into thin strips
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 2 garlic cloves, finely grated
• 1 tbsp dried oregano
• 1 tsp sweet paprika
• 1 tsp ground cumin
• 1 tsp fine sea salt
• ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tbsp red wine vinegar
• For the tzatziki: 400 g (14 oz) Greek yoghurt
• 1 small cucumber, halved lengthways and seeds scraped out
• 1 garlic clove, finely grated
• 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 tbsp lemon juice
• 1 tbsp finely chopped dill
• ½ tsp fine sea salt
• For serving: 4 large Greek pitta breads
• 2 medium tomatoes, sliced
• 1 small red onion, thinly sliced
• A little extra olive oil, for brushing

Method

1. Put the pork strips into a large bowl. Add the olive oil, garlic, oregano, paprika, cumin, salt, pepper and red wine vinegar, then mix thoroughly so every piece is coated.
2. Cover and marinate for at least 20 minutes at room temperature, or up to 8 hours in the fridge, so the seasoning penetrates and the meat firms slightly.
3. Make the tzatziki: grate the cucumber coarsely, then squeeze it firmly in a clean cloth or your hands to remove excess liquid.
4. Stir the cucumber into the yoghurt with the garlic, olive oil, lemon juice, dill and salt. Chill until needed so the flavours meld and the sauce thickens.
5. Heat a large frying pan over medium-high heat for 2 minutes until hot. Add the pork in a single layer, in batches if needed, and cook for 3–4 minutes undisturbed to build colour.
6. Turn and continue cooking over medium-high heat for another 4–6 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the strips are browned at the edges and cooked through with no pink remaining.
7. Reduce the heat to low and let the pork sit in the pan for 1 minute, tossing once, so it stays juicy while you warm the bread.
8. Warm the pitta breads one by one in a dry frying pan over medium heat for 30–40 seconds per side, or until soft and flexible with a few toasted spots.
9. Brush the warm pitta lightly with olive oil, then top each with pork, sliced tomato, red onion and a generous spoonful of tzatziki.
10. Fold or roll at once and serve immediately while the bread is warm and the meat is at its best.

To serve

Serve wrapped in parchment or on a plate with extra tzatziki, a simple Greek salad and lemon wedges. A chilled dry white wine or a cold beer suits it well.

Ingredients

• 500 g (1 lb 2 oz) minced beef, or a mixture of beef and lamb
• 1 small onion, finely grated
• 2 garlic cloves, finely grated
• 1 large slice stale bread, crusts removed and soaked in water, then squeezed dry
• 1 egg
• 2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
• 1 tbsp fresh mint, finely chopped
• 1 tsp dried oregano
• 1 tsp salt
• ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
• ¼ tsp ground cumin
• 2 tbsp plain flour, plus extra for shaping
• 3 tbsp olive oil, for the pan-frying
• [For serving] 200 g (7 oz) Greek yoghurt
• [For serving] 1 tbsp lemon juice
• [For serving] 1 small garlic clove, finely grated
• [For serving] 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• [For serving] 1 pinch salt

Method

1. If serving the yoghurt sauce, stir together the Greek yoghurt, lemon juice, garlic, extra-virgin olive oil and salt in a small bowl. Chill while you make the keftedes so the flavours mellow.
2. Place the minced meat in a large bowl and add the grated onion, grated garlic, squeezed bread, egg, parsley, mint, oregano, salt, pepper and cumin.
3. Mix thoroughly with your hands for 2 to 3 minutes until the mixture becomes cohesive and slightly tacky; it should look evenly seasoned and hold together when pressed.
4. Sprinkle over the flour and mix briefly just until incorporated. Cover and rest for 10 minutes so the bread hydrates fully and the mixture firms up.
5. Lightly dust your hands with flour and shape the mixture into 16 to 18 small meatballs, about the size of a walnut. Set them on a tray and press each one very gently so they are not perfectly round; this helps them cook evenly.
6. Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat to about 170°C (340°F) for 2 to 3 minutes, until shimmering but not smoking.
7. Add the keftedes in a single layer and fry for 8 to 10 minutes, turning them every 2 minutes, until browned all over and cooked through to the centre.
8. Lower the heat if they colour too quickly, so the outside becomes crisp without scorching and the inside stays juicy.
9. Transfer to a plate lined with kitchen paper and rest for 2 minutes before serving.
10. Serve warm with the yoghurt sauce alongside.

To serve

Arrange the keftedes on a platter with the yoghurt sauce in a bowl for dipping, plus lemon wedges and warm bread. A crisp white wine or a light, dry rosé suits them well.

• VVegetarian

Ingredients

• 200 g (7 oz) walnuts, roughly chopped
• 100 g (3 1/2 oz) almonds, roughly chopped
• 2 tbsp caster sugar
• 1 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
• 1/4 tsp ground cloves
• 375 g (13 oz) filo pastry, thawed if frozen
• 250 g (9 oz) unsalted butter, melted and kept warm
• 250 ml (9 fl oz) water
• 300 g (10 1/2 oz) caster sugar
• 150 g (5 1/4 oz) runny honey
• 1 strip lemon peel
• 1 strip orange peel
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 1 tbsp lemon juice

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 160°C fan (180°C, 350°F, gas mark 4). Lightly butter a 23 x 33 cm baking tin or roasting tin and set it aside.
2. Make the filling by combining the chopped walnuts, almonds, caster sugar, cinnamon and cloves in a bowl. Mix well so the spices are evenly distributed, then set aside.
3. For the syrup, put the water, caster sugar, honey, lemon peel, orange peel and cinnamon stick into a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce to medium-low and simmer for 8-10 minutes until slightly syrupy and aromatic.
4. Remove the syrup from the heat, stir in the lemon juice, and leave it to cool completely. It should be cool or barely warm before it touches the baked pastry, so the baklava stays crisp.
5. Unroll the filo and keep it covered with a clean, slightly damp tea towel. Lay one sheet in the tin, brush it lightly with melted butter, and repeat until you have 8 buttered sheets in the base.
6. Spread one third of the nut mixture evenly over the filo, then add 2 more buttered sheets. Repeat twice more with another third of the nuts and 2 sheets, then the final third of the nuts and 2 sheets.
7. Finish with 8 more buttered filo sheets on top, brushing each sheet lightly with butter and tucking the edges neatly into the tin. Use a sharp knife to cut the baklava right through into diamonds or squares before baking.
8. Bake on the middle shelf for 45-50 minutes until deeply golden and crisp on top and around the edges. If it browns too quickly, loosely cover with foil for the final 10 minutes.
9. As soon as the baklava comes out of the oven, spoon the cooled syrup evenly over the hot pastry, working gradually so it can absorb the syrup without flooding the tin.
10. Leave the baklava to cool completely at room temperature for at least 4 hours, preferably overnight, so the syrup settles and the layers firm up. Once cool, cut along the scores and lift out the pieces carefully with a palette knife.

To serve

Serve the baklava at room temperature on a platter, with the crisp top exposed and a little of the syrup glistening around the edges. It is excellent with Greek coffee or a glass of dessert wine, and needs nothing more than a few chopped pistachios or walnuts scattered over the top if you like a more decorative finish.

• VVegetarian
• GFGluten-free

Ingredients

• 1 litre (1¾ pints) whole milk
• 200 ml (7 fl oz) water
• 100 g (3½ oz) short-grain rice, rinsed
• 75 g (2¾ oz) caster sugar
• 1 strip lemon zest, wide strip
• 1 strip orange zest, wide strip
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 1 pinch fine salt
• 2 tbsp cornflour
• 3 tbsp cold water
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• ground cinnamon, to serve

Method

1. Put the rinsed rice, whole milk, water, lemon zest, orange zest, cinnamon stick and salt into a heavy saucepan. Set over medium heat and bring slowly to a bare simmer, stirring now and then so the rice does not catch on the base.
2. Reduce the heat to low and cook gently for 25-30 minutes, stirring frequently, until the rice is very tender and the mixture has begun to look creamy rather than milky.
3. Stir in the sugar and continue cooking over low heat for 3-4 minutes, until the crystals have dissolved and the pudding tastes rounded and lightly sweet.
4. In a small bowl, whisk the cornflour with the cold water until completely smooth and free of lumps.
5. Pour the cornflour slurry into the pan in a thin stream, stirring constantly to emulsify and thicken the pudding. Cook over low heat for 2-3 minutes, until it loosens briefly, then thickens again and lightly coats the back of a spoon.
6. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the vanilla extract. Discard the cinnamon stick and zest strips.
7. Leave the rizogalo to rest for 5-10 minutes, stirring once or twice to keep a skin from forming if serving warm.
8. Spoon into small bowls or glasses and let cool to room temperature, or chill until softly set and cold, 1-2 hours, before serving.
9. Serve with a light dusting of ground cinnamon over the top.

To serve

Serve in shallow bowls or small glasses, with the cinnamon sifted over just before bringing to the table. It is lovely on its own, or with a few almonds on the side and a glass of dessert wine or strong Greek coffee.

• VVegetarian

Ingredients

• 1.2 litres (2 pints 2 fl oz) whole milk
• 200 g (7 oz) fine semolina
• 150 g (5½ oz) caster sugar
• 1 large egg
• 2 large egg yolks
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 40 g (1½ oz) unsalted butter
• 1 strip lemon peel
• 1 pinch fine sea salt
• 12 sheets filo pastry
• 150 g (5½ oz) unsalted butter, melted, plus extra for the tin
• 2 tbsp icing sugar, to serve
• 1 tsp ground cinnamon, to serve

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C fan (200°C / 400°F / gas 6). Butter a shallow baking tin or ovenproof dish measuring about 30 x 20 cm, and keep the filo covered with a clean damp tea towel so it does not dry out.
2. For the custard, pour the milk into a medium saucepan with the lemon peel and place over medium heat. Bring it just to the point of steaming, then remove from the heat and discard the lemon peel.
3. In a separate bowl, whisk together the egg, egg yolks, sugar, vanilla and salt until smooth and slightly paler. Whisk in the semolina to make a thick, even paste.
4. Return the milk to medium heat and pour in the semolina mixture in a steady stream, whisking constantly to prevent lumps. Cook for 4-6 minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon, until the custard thickens, bubbles gently and loses any raw flour taste.
5. Remove the pan from the heat and beat in the butter until fully melted and incorporated. Transfer the custard to a shallow bowl or tray and press baking paper directly onto the surface to stop a skin forming; leave to cool until just warm.
6. Lay one sheet of filo in the prepared tin, letting the edges overhang, and brush lightly with melted butter. Repeat with five more sheets, brushing each sheet and offsetting them so the base and sides are well layered.
7. Spoon in the custard and spread it into an even layer. Fold the overhanging filo over the filling, then top with the remaining six sheets, brushing each sheet with butter and tucking the edges neatly around the pastry to enclose the custard.
8. Trim any excess if needed, then score the top lightly into portions with a sharp knife, cutting only through the top layers so steam can escape. Brush the surface generously with the remaining melted butter.
9. Bake on the middle oven shelf for 35-40 minutes, until deeply golden, crisp and puffed, and the base is firm rather than pale and soft. If the top browns too quickly, cover loosely with foil for the last 10 minutes.
10. Leave to rest for 10-15 minutes so the filling settles slightly and the pastry stays crisp. Dust generously with icing sugar and cinnamon just before serving.

To serve

Serve bougatsa warm, cut into squares or diamonds, with the icing sugar and cinnamon added at the last minute. It is excellent on its own for breakfast or with strong coffee; a light glass of dessert wine also suits the sweet, milky filling.

• VVegetarian
• DFDairy-free

Ingredients

• 500 g (1 lb 2 oz) strong white bread flour
• 7 g (2¼ tsp) fast-action dried yeast
• 1 tbsp caster sugar
• 1 tsp fine sea salt
• 400 ml (14 fl oz) lukewarm water
• 1 tsp white wine vinegar
• 1 litre (1¾ pints) sunflower oil, for frying
• 150 g (5 oz) clear runny honey
• 2 tbsp warm water
• 1 tsp ground cinnamon
• 2 tbsp sesame seeds, lightly toasted, or 50 g (1¾ oz) walnuts, finely chopped

Method

1. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, yeast, sugar and salt until evenly distributed.
2. Add the lukewarm water and white wine vinegar, then beat vigorously with a wooden spoon or spatula for 2 to 3 minutes until you have a smooth, elastic, very sticky batter with no dry patches.
3. Cover the bowl with a clean cloth and leave in a warm place for 45 to 60 minutes, until the batter is bubbly, visibly aerated and roughly doubled in volume.
4. While the batter rises, mix the honey with the warm water in a small pan over low heat for 1 to 2 minutes, just until loosened and runny; keep warm without boiling.
5. Pour the oil into a deep saucepan or fryer to a depth of at least 5 cm (2 in) and heat over medium heat to 170°C (340°F), checking with a thermometer and maintaining the temperature throughout frying.
6. Using two teaspoons lightly dipped in water, or your hands oiled very lightly, portion walnut-sized pieces of batter into the hot oil and fry in batches for 3 to 4 minutes, turning regularly, until puffed and deep golden all over.
7. Lift the loukoumades out with a slotted spoon and drain briefly on a rack or paper-lined tray while you continue frying the remaining batter, allowing the oil to return to temperature between batches.
8. Arrange the hot loukoumades on a warm serving dish, drizzle generously with the warm honey, then scatter over the cinnamon and sesame seeds or chopped walnuts while the syrup is still glossy.
9. Serve straight away, while the outsides are crisp and the centres remain tender and airy.

To serve

Pile the loukoumades high on a platter and finish with an extra thread of honey at the table. They are ideal with Greek coffee or a sweet dessert wine, and a little extra cinnamon on the side.

• VVegetarian

Ingredients

• 250 ml (9 fl oz) full-fat milk
• 250 ml (9 fl oz) double cream
• 150 g (5 1/2 oz) caster sugar
• 1 strip lemon peel
• 1 strip orange peel
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 4 large eggs
• 2 large egg yolks
• 100 g (3 1/2 oz) fine semolina
• 60 g (2 1/4 oz) unsalted butter
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 1 pinch fine sea salt
• 12 sheets phyllo pastry, thawed if frozen
• 200 g (7 oz) unsalted butter, melted, plus extra for the tin
• For the syrup: 300 g (10 1/2 oz) caster sugar
• For the syrup: 250 ml (9 fl oz) water
• For the syrup: 1 lemon, peeled into strips
• For the syrup: 1 cinnamon stick
• For the syrup: 1 tbsp honey

Method

1. Make the syrup first: put the sugar, water, lemon peel, cinnamon stick and honey into a small saucepan and bring to the boil over medium-high heat, then reduce to medium and simmer for 8–10 minutes until slightly syrupy but still pourable.
2. Remove the syrup from the heat and leave it to cool completely; it should be cool or just warm when you use it, so it soaks in without making the pastry collapse.
3. For the custard, put the milk, cream, lemon peel, orange peel and cinnamon stick into a medium saucepan and warm over medium heat for 5–6 minutes until steaming and just below the boil, then remove from the heat and discard the peels and cinnamon.
4. In a bowl, whisk the eggs, yolks and caster sugar for 1–2 minutes until pale and smooth, then whisk in the semolina, vanilla and salt until fully combined.
5. Pour the hot milk mixture gradually into the egg mixture, whisking constantly to temper it and prevent scrambling.
6. Return the mixture to a clean saucepan and cook over medium heat for 6–8 minutes, whisking continuously, until it thickens to a glossy custard that coats the back of a spoon and just begins to bubble.
7. Take the pan off the heat and whisk in the butter until melted and smooth, then cover the surface directly with baking paper and leave to cool for 15 minutes so it does not form a skin.
8. Preheat the oven to 180°C fan (200°C, 400°F, gas mark 6). Brush a 23 x 33 cm (9 x 13 in) baking dish with a little melted butter.
9. Lay 6 sheets of phyllo in the dish, one at a time, brushing each sheet generously with melted butter and letting the edges overhang the sides of the dish.
10. Spoon in the custard and spread it into an even layer, taking care not to tear the pastry underneath.
11. Fold the overhanging phyllo over the custard, then layer the remaining 6 sheets on top, brushing each one with butter and tucking the edges neatly into the dish to enclose the filling.
12. With a sharp knife, score the top lightly into squares or diamonds, cutting only through the pastry layers and not down into the custard.
13. Bake for 45–50 minutes over medium oven heat until the pastry is deep golden, crisp and visibly puffed.
14. As soon as the galaktoboureko comes out of the oven, slowly pour the cooled syrup evenly over the hot pastry, letting it absorb gradually.
15. Leave to rest for at least 1 hour before cutting fully through the scored lines and serving so the custard sets and the syrup settles into the layers.

To serve

Serve at room temperature or slightly warm in neat squares, dusted lightly with icing sugar if you like. It needs little alongside it beyond strong coffee or a glass of sweet dessert wine; a few toasted nuts over the top are a fine finish.

• VVegetarian

Ingredients

• 300 g (10 1/2 oz) kataifi pastry, thawed if frozen
• 200 g (7 oz) walnuts, finely chopped
• 50 g (1 3/4 oz) blanched almonds, finely chopped
• 100 g (3 1/2 oz) caster sugar
• 1 tsp ground cinnamon
• 1/4 tsp ground cloves
• 1 lemon, finely grated zest
• 150 g (5 1/2 oz) unsalted butter, melted
• 500 g (1 lb 2 oz) caster sugar [for the syrup]
• 300 ml (10 fl oz) water [for the syrup]
• 1 cinnamon stick [for the syrup]
• 3 cloves [for the syrup]
• 1 strip lemon peel [for the syrup]
• 2 tbsp lemon juice [for the syrup]
• 1 tbsp honey

Method

1. First make the syrup: put the 500 g sugar, water, cinnamon stick, cloves and lemon peel into a small saucepan and bring slowly to the boil over medium heat, about 6–8 minutes.
2. Once boiling, reduce to low heat and simmer for 8 minutes, until the syrup is slightly reduced and lightly viscous.
3. Remove from the heat, stir in the lemon juice and honey, then leave the syrup to cool completely; it should be cool or barely warm before use.
4. Heat the oven to 160°C fan (180°C conventional, 350°F, gas 4). Brush a large baking dish or tray, about 30 x 20 cm, with a little of the melted butter.
5. In a bowl, mix the chopped walnuts, almonds, 100 g sugar, cinnamon, cloves and lemon zest until evenly combined.
6. Fluff the kataifi pastry apart gently with your fingers to loosen the strands without tearing them, then cover with a slightly damp tea towel to stop it drying out.
7. Take a small bundle of pastry, spread it out into a thin nest, place a spoonful of the nut filling along one end, and roll up loosely into a compact cigar shape; repeat with the remaining pastry and filling.
8. Arrange the rolls seam-side down in the prepared dish, packing them closely together so they support one another during baking.
9. Brush the tops and sides generously with the remaining melted butter, making sure the strands are well coated for even browning.
10. Bake on the middle shelf for 30–35 minutes over medium oven heat until deep golden, crisp and lightly audibly dry when lifted at the edge.
11. As soon as the pastry comes out of the oven, ladle the cold syrup slowly and evenly over the hot kataifi; it should sizzle at first and then soak in.
12. Leave to stand for at least 1 hour, until the syrup is fully absorbed and the pastry has settled into a crisp-but-succulent texture, then serve.

To serve

Serve the kataifi in neat portions with a little of the syrup spooned over the plate and a few chopped nuts scattered on top. It is excellent with thick Greek coffee or a small glass of dessert wine; a little unsweetened yoghurt alongside is a pleasant contrast.

• VVegetarian

Ingredients

• 250 g (9 oz) unsalted butter, softened
• 200 g (7 oz) caster sugar
• 2 large eggs, at room temperature
• 2 tsp vanilla extract
• 1 orange, finely grated zest only
• 60 ml (2 fl oz) milk, at room temperature
• 500 g (1 lb 2 oz) plain flour, plus extra for dusting
• 2 tsp baking powder
• 1/2 tsp fine sea salt
• 1 egg yolk, beaten with 1 tbsp milk, for glazing
• 1 tbsp sesame seeds, optional

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C fan (200°C/392°F/Gas 6) and line two baking trays with baking paper.
2. In a large bowl, beat the softened butter and sugar together on medium speed, or by hand with a wooden spoon, for 3-4 minutes until pale, light and creamy.
3. Beat in the eggs one at a time, mixing well after each addition until the mixture is smooth and emulsified, then stir in the vanilla extract and orange zest.
4. Add the milk and mix briefly until incorporated.
5. In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt to distribute the leavening evenly.
6. Add the dry ingredients to the butter mixture in two or three additions, mixing gently until a soft, pliable dough forms and no dry flour remains; do not overwork.
7. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead very briefly, just until smooth. If it feels sticky, dust with a little more flour, but keep the dough soft.
8. Divide the dough into walnut-sized pieces and roll each piece into a rope about 12-15 cm (5-6 in) long. Shape into twists, braids or rings, pressing the ends together neatly if needed.
9. Arrange the biscuits on the prepared trays, leaving a little space between them. Brush lightly with the egg yolk glaze and sprinkle with sesame seeds, if using.
10. Bake on the middle shelves for 12-15 minutes, until the biscuits are lightly golden on the edges and just set on top. They should remain pale rather than deeply coloured.
11. Leave to cool on the trays for 5 minutes to firm up, then transfer to a wire rack and cool completely.

To serve

Serve the koulourakia alongside Greek coffee, mountain tea or milk, arranged in a bowl or on a platter. They are lovely plain, though a little extra orange zest over the top after baking makes them especially fragrant.

• VVegetarian
• VGVegan
• GFGluten-free
• DFDairy-free

Ingredients

• 300 g (10 1/2 oz) caster sugar
• 180 ml (6 fl oz) water
• 1 strip lemon peel
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 300 g (10 1/2 oz) tahini, well stirred
• 80 g (2 3/4 oz) blanched almonds, toasted and roughly chopped
• 2 tbsp shelled pistachios, lightly toasted and chopped
• 1 tbsp unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted

Method

1. Line a 900 g (2 lb) loaf tin with baking parchment, leaving overhang on two sides for easy lifting. Lightly grease the parchment with a little neutral oil and set aside.
2. Put the sugar, water, lemon peel and cinnamon stick into a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to the boil, stirring just until the sugar dissolves, then simmer for 4–5 minutes until the syrup is clear and slightly reduced.
3. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the vanilla extract. Discard the lemon peel and cinnamon stick.
4. Tip the tahini into a large mixing bowl. If using cocoa, sift it over the tahini now and stir thoroughly until evenly combined and glossy.
5. With a wooden spoon or sturdy spatula, begin pouring the hot syrup into the tahini in a thin stream, stirring constantly and briskly to emulsify. Keep mixing until the mixture thickens, turns opaque and starts to pull away from the sides of the bowl.
6. Fold in the toasted almonds and pistachios, reserving a small handful for the top if you like a neater finish.
7. Scrape the mixture into the prepared loaf tin and press it down firmly with the back of a spoon or a spatula to eliminate air pockets. Smooth the surface and scatter over the reserved nuts.
8. Leave at cool room temperature for at least 3 hours, or until completely set and firm enough to slice cleanly. For a cleaner cut, chill briefly before slicing, then let stand 10 minutes before serving.
9. Lift the halva out using the parchment, cut into thin slices or small diamonds, and serve at once or store covered in a cool, dry place.

To serve

Serve halva in slender slices after a meal or with Greek coffee, alongside fresh fruit if you like. A few extra chopped pistachios on top make a simple finish, and a sweet wine or strong black coffee suits it well.

• VVegetarian
• GFGluten-free

Ingredients

• 2 tsp instant coffee (Greek-style instant is traditional)
• 1–2 tsp caster sugar, to taste (optional)
• 2 tbsp (30 ml) cold water
• Ice cubes, to serve
• Cold water or cold milk, to top up

Method

1. Put the instant coffee, sugar (if using) and the 2 tbsp cold water into a cocktail shaker or a tall glass.
2. If using a shaker, seal and shake hard for 20–30 seconds until thick and foamy. If using a glass, whisk with a handheld milk frother for 20–30 seconds until a stiff, pale-brown foam forms.
3. Fill a separate tall glass with ice cubes.
4. Spoon or pour the coffee foam over the ice.
5. Top up slowly with cold water for a black frappé, or cold milk for a lighter one, so the foam rises to the top.
6. Serve at once with a straw. Stir gently before drinking and adjust with more water, milk or sugar to taste.

To serve

Serve very cold with a straw and a glass of water alongside, as is customary in Greece. It is good with a biscuit such as koulourakia on a hot afternoon.

• VVegetarian
• VGVegan
• GFGluten-free
• DFDairy-free

Ingredients

• 1 heaped tsp very finely ground Greek coffee (almost powdery)
• 1 Greek coffee cup (about 60 ml / 2 fl oz) cold water
• Sugar to taste: none for sketo, 1 tsp for metrio, 2 tsp for glyko

Method

1. Decide the sweetness first, as the sugar is cooked in and cannot be added later: none (sketo), 1 tsp (metrio) or 2 tsp (glyko).
2. Measure the cold water with the coffee cup and pour it into a briki, or the smallest saucepan you have.
3. Add the coffee and sugar, stir once to combine, then stop stirring.
4. Set over low heat and warm slowly for 3–4 minutes. As it heats, a dark foam (kaïmaki) will form and rise.
5. Watch closely: as the foam climbs toward the rim and is about to boil over, remove the briki from the heat immediately. Do not let it boil.
6. Spoon a little foam into the cup first, then pour in the rest slowly to keep the kaïmaki on top.
7. Let the coffee stand for a minute so the grounds settle, then serve without stirring.

To serve

Serve in a small cup with a glass of cold water and perhaps a small sweet such as loukoumi. Sip slowly and stop before the grounds at the bottom.

• VVegetarian
• VGVegan
• GFGluten-free
• DFDairy-free

Ingredients

• 50 g (1¾ oz) fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated
• 2 unwaxed lemons, zest and juice
• 200 g (7 oz) caster sugar
• 2 litres (3½ pints) water
• ¼ tsp active dried yeast
• 1 tbsp cream of tartar (optional, traditional)

Method

1. Put the grated ginger, lemon zest, sugar, cream of tartar (if using) and 500 ml of the water into a saucepan. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat and cook for 5–10 minutes, until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture is fragrant.
2. Off the heat, stir in the remaining 1.5 litres cold water and the lemon juice. Leave to cool to lukewarm, below 30°C (86°F), so the heat will not kill the yeast.
3. Once lukewarm, sprinkle over the yeast and stir gently to combine.
4. Cover the container loosely with a clean cloth and leave at cool room temperature for 24–48 hours, until small bubbles form and the drink tastes lightly tart and gently fizzy.
5. Strain through a fine sieve or muslin into clean PLASTIC (PET) bottles — not glass, which can shatter under pressure — filling each to leave at least 4 cm (1½ in) of headspace, then close the caps.
6. Leave at cool room temperature for 12 to 24 hours to build a gentle sparkle, and "burp" each bottle once or twice a day by briefly loosening the cap to release the built-up gas. A PET bottle should feel firm when squeezed but never rock-hard; if it hardens, release the pressure at once. As soon as it is lightly fizzy, move the bottles to the refrigerator.
7. The drink stays under pressure, so always open it slowly over a sink with the bottle pointed away from your face. Refrigeration only slows the fermentation, so serve ice-cold and drink within 3 to 4 days, keeping the bottles refrigerated throughout; discard any bottle that has become very hard or is bulging.

To serve

Serve very cold over ice with a slice of lemon on a hot day. A refreshing low-alcohol alternative to soft drinks, it pairs well with grilled meats and a meze table.